テロワール：真実-Winestealssd.com

テロワールは、ワインの世界の誰もが受け入れる流行語の1つですが、それは本当にどういう意味ですか？そして、それは生産者が主張するワインに本当に影響を及ぼしますか？ルパートジョイは深く掘り下げて調べます

スーツシーズン8エピソード16

ローヌ北部のコンドリューの南には、シャトーグリレットの小さなアペラシオンがあります。自然の円形劇場の急な斜面にある3.4ヘクタールのブドウの木は、はるかに大きな隣人であるコンドリューと同じブドウ品種と土壌から微量のワインを生産します。しかし、それは1936年以来、別個のACとして認識されており、はるかに多くの価格で販売されています。その所有者であるIsabelleBaratin-Canetは、花崗岩の土壌と南向きの露出から作られたワインの独創性が何世紀にもわたって認識されてきたことを強調しています。しかし、彼女の隣人の何人かは、シャトー・グリレットとコンドリューのテロワールの間にそのような違いがあるかどうか疑問に思っています。

土地の特定の部分が特に素晴らしいワインを生産するという考えは新しいものではありません。 1677年にボルドーを訪れた哲学者ジョンロックは、シャトーオーブリオンの「土壌の特殊性」が隣人と区別されていることを指摘しました。 1728年にロンドンで出版されたアボットアルヌーの本は、ブルゴーニュのモンラッシェの素晴らしさをコートドールの特定の地球に帰したものです。

現代の現象とは、「テロワール」という言葉を使ってアイデアを説明することです。その元々のフランス語の意味合いは蔑称的でした。 20世紀半ばまで、ヴィンテロイテは素朴で素朴なワインを意味し、せいぜい一種のヨークルの魅力があり、最悪の場合は欠点がありました。ゴット・ド・テロワール（テロワールのフレーバー）を使ったワインは、熟していないブドウや腐ったブドウを味わう、粗末に作られたワインでした。より肯定的な属性としてのテロワールの考えは、1930年代にACシステムが誕生するまで現れませんでした。

誰もがテロワールの独自の定義を持っています。おそらく最も単純なのは、それを「どこか」と表現しているアメリカのワイン作家マット・クレイマーのそれです。 INAO（フランスのACシステムを担当する機関）の定義を含むほとんどのフランスの定義には、場所の物理的特性（特に土壌と露出）、その気候、使用されるブドウの品種、および人間が果たす役割の4つの重要な要素が含まれます。。

ビューティ＆ビーストシーズン4エピソード11

ワインはブドウが栽培されている場所から特定の特徴を引き出し、その特徴を表現するのに人間が役割を果たすという基本的な前提に異議を唱える人はほとんどいません。しかし、最近のほぼすべてのワイン生産者がテロワールを尊重するワインを生産すると主張し、「非介入主義」アプローチをとると主張していることを考えると、消費者はテロワールが実際に何を意味するのか疑問に思う理由があります。

テイラー・スウィフトとコナー・ケネディ

テロワールのルーツ

言葉が「地形」に似ているためか、テロワールは主に土壌と関連付けられる傾向があります。これは次に、ワインがそれらが栽培されている土壌から直接味を引き出すという認識を促進することができます。

古典的な例は、世界で最も有名なワインの1つであるシャブリです。至る所にあるブドウ品種から作られているにもかかわらず、シャルドネのシャブリ表現は他のどの地域のものとも異なります。最も評判の高いワインは、先史時代の牡蠣の殻で構成された、柔らかいキンメリッジアンのチョークのようなマールから来ています。

生産者やワイン作家は、ワインの特徴的なフリントヨードの味と地域の地質を結びつけることがよくあります。「土壌の組成ではなくても、シャブリのヨウ素添加塩を他にどのように説明できますか？」とバーナード・ビロー・シモンは尋ねます。「他の場所で栽培されているシャルドネには、この味はありません。」

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