ヴィンテージレポート：バローロ2009- Winestealssd.com

バローロ2009、

ピエモンテ

トム・マレスカは、この「陰気な」ショーの理由の1つとして、ワインメーカーがヴィンテージの難しさに対処できなかったことを理由に、この2009年のテイスティングに大いに失望しました。

「2009年の長寿について楽観的な見方を正当化したものはほとんどなく、ほとんどの生産者は2009年を短期間の飲酒のヴィンテージとして語っていました。」

2009年のヴィンテージバローロいくつかの厳しい真実といくつかの厳しいワインで消費者に立ち向かうでしょう。 5月にアルバのネッビオーロプリマで開催されたバローロ2009の200以上の例を味わいました。イベントの5日間に提供されたワインの大部分は、古典的なネッビオーロの色を欠いているだけでなく、ネッビオーロのアロマやフレーバーをほとんど示していませんでした。

私はバローロが大好きで、その献身とビジョンの明確さで多くのプロデューサーを尊敬し、賞賛しています。それでも、このヴィンテージでは、それらの多くのパフォーマンスが単に不足しているだけでなく、悲惨だったと言わざるを得ません。

もちろん例外もありました。ジャコモ・フェノキオ、アルド・コンテルノ、プルノットなど、いくつかのプロデューサーはかなり飲めるバローロでした。いくつか、特にピオ・チェザーレとマソリーノ・ヴィーニャ・リオンダは、ワインの熟成の可能性を信じています。その意見は、ジャーナリストよりも1週間早くこれらのワインのセレクションを味わった商人やバイヤー、そして生産者（盲目ではない）によって頻繁に繰り返されました。しかし、私の口蓋には、そして私が話した多くのジャーナリストの意見では、ほとんどのバローロメーカーはこのヴィンテージの難しさをひどく過小評価しているようです。彼らの寿命について楽観的な見方を正当化する2009年はほとんどなく、ほとんどの生産者は2009年を短期間の飲酒のヴィンテージとして語った。

モンフォルテのコミューンにあるアルドコンテルノワイナリーのジャコモコンテルノは、より率直なプロデューサーの1人でした。彼は次のように述べています。「2009年はワイン生産者のヴィンテージでした。 8月末の時点で、[ネッビオーロ]のブドウの木の中には、すでにほとんど熟しているものもあれば、完全に熟していないものもあります。それらの間の差はほぼ30日です。それについてあなたがしたことは、あなたがどの種類のワインを作るかを決定しました。」今年の収穫の通常明るいコンソーシアムの評価は非常に警戒されています。

「2009年のヴィンテージは、その不規則な熟成パターンでも記憶されます…技術的成熟の観点から、ヴィンテージは2003年から2007年の間に置くことができます…フェノールの成熟に関して…ブドウで見つかったデータは2003年と同等でした…このヴィンテージでは、収穫を遅らせることで結果が常に改善されるとは限りませんでした。

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トムマレスカ脚本の作品